Picture of Borth y Gest, near Porthmadog
Borth y Gest, near Porthmadog

THERE can be few seaside villages in Wales that have maintained their Victorian quaintness better than Borth y Gest.

Remarkably showing very few signs of commercialisation, and none the worse for it, this pretty village near Porthmadog features rows of regimented terraces tumbling down to the horseshoe-shaped promenade that skirts the perimeter of this romantic cove.

In years past it was the starting point of one of the major crossings across the wide and dangerous expanses of the Glaslyn estuary, where it tumbles into Tremadog Bay, the locals earning precious farthings for guiding strangers across the treacherous sands of Traeth Mawr at low tide to Harlech on the other side.

This source of income disappeared when William Maddocks' Cob embankment across the mouth of the river opened in 1811. They must be cursing him to this day.

Once a port of note and a ship-building centre of some renown, nowadays the place is largely dotted with minuscule rowing boats lapping up the sun, face downwards like lazy, encrusted turtles.
Tourists and locals compete for room on the benches that sit at the water's edge.

A pair of ducks - a colourful male and its partner - strike up quite a racket as they waddle their way along the cove's muddy surface now that it's low tide, only slightly distracted by a huge yellow Labrador that threatens to lunge straight at them before having second thoughts and retreating.
Twitchers with binoculars powerful enough to study the lunar seas keep their eyes peeled for oystercatchers, curlews, grebes and redshanks.
With the large car park in the centre of the village one of few in Gwynedd that allows free parking, it offers the ideal starting point for a stroll along the coastal path towards the better known sandy expanses of Black Rock Sands in Morfa Bychan.

The well-maintained path leads to a number of idyllic and isolated little coves, as well as offering stunning views over the bay, which would be difficult to better anywhere in the world. The bay is particularly photogenic as the orange sun dips into the Irish Sea on balmy evenings.

Meanwhile the village is largely surrounded by woodland, much of it deciduous and dominated by ancient Welsh oaks.

Parc y Borth woods is a local nature reserve long popular with walkers and ornithologists, and among the birdlife you might be lucky to spot flitting between the branches are green woodpeckers, tawny owls and pied flycatchers.

An extensive network of paths will lead you through the woods to the top of a crag with extensive views of the Glaslyn and Dwyryd estuaries.

Pen y Banc is another nature reserve around here, featuring spectacularly secluded sandy coves and mixed woodland. Popular with families seeking their own private paradise away from the teeming summer crowds, it enjoys a mild climate which encourages gorse and heather, blackthorn, crabapple, birch and oak.

Having built up an appropriate appetite, you might choose to refuel at the Moorings Bistro on the promenade.

Open from 6pm on Wednesdays to Saturdays, and for Sunday lunch from noon-2pm, the menu might typically include sea bass (£15.50), baked salmon supreme (£12.95) or a quarter crispy roast duck (£9.95), refreshingly washed down with a bottle of local Purple Moose ale.

Moorings Bistro, Ivy Terrace, Borth y Gest. 01766 513 500





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