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Hotels in North Wales



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Mallwyd, Nr. Machynlleth, Powys SY20 9HJ

Tel: 01650 511 999

A SEA of faces - mostly young - turn to see who's making an entrance into their local through the driving rain this windswept Saturday night.

They smile and nod their welcomes, then return to whatever chit-chat had been occupying their thoughts. The place is a-hum with that distinctive dialect of Welsh they speak in these parts, in which vowels are taken as objects to be marvellously manipulated and twisted at will.

Thankfully the welcome is distinctly warmer than what might have awaited strangers back in the 16th century, when the feared Gwylliaid Cochion Mawddwy - the red-headed bandits of Mawddwy - ruled the roost around here.

It's said that this former coaching inn, sitting at a crossroads that has for centuries been one of the main interchanges for travellers going north-south (on what is now the A470) and east-west across mid Wales, was one of their haunts.

It's certainly old enough and, although extensively revamped and renovated as recently as 2004, retains the moody and atmospheric atmosphere that marks a place of great antiquity.

It was originally known as the Peniarth Arms, ironically after the estate owned by their arch-enemy Baron Lewis Owen's family, and later as Bury's Hotel.

It was renamed the Brigands' Inn towards the middle of the last century, in recognition of it links with a criminal fraternity still warmly thought of by many as warriors who fought the commoner's cause against the omnipotent gentry.

Over 80 of them were seized one Christmas Eve and later executed for their troubles by the Baron, the Sheriff of Meirionnydd. But they got their own back on October 11, 1555, when they ambushed him and his retinue and killed him at a spot just down the road towards Llangadfan still known as Llidiart y Barwn (The Baron's Gate).

There's still the odd hint of ginger on heads around the bar, but they seem affable enough these days, and I'm not tempted to feel for my scabbard.

Meanwhile a tidal wave of upper class chortling floods over from another bar, in complete contrast to the more down-to-earth company I'm keeping. I'm informed they're rich youngsters down from England for a spot of pheasant shooting, an important and extremely valuable part of this highly rural area's economic portfolio.

The Brigands is a maze of rooms, featuring open timberwork and slate floors, all very tastefully renovated and offering several nooks and crannies for that private talk or even illicit smooch.

Catering for weddings and all sorts of functions, it naturally enough places great stock on its food offering. It boasts of its mix of contemporary and classic Welsh cuisine, and specialises in game and fish.

The ever-changing menu could typically offer pan fried local sea bass on mussel and prawn broth (£15), a classic T-bone steak (£16.50) or Welsh beef fillet topped with chicken liver parfait, with wild mushrooms and red wine jus. And all without a bandit in sight.