Glasfryn, Mold

YOU'RE more likely at lunchtime to spot a member of the legal profession at Mold's Glasfryn gastro-pub than when it was built at the turn of the 19th century.

The fine Arts and Craft building was reputedly created as a stop-over for circuit judges visiting the town's law courts, with a butler and cleaner on stand-by - though it's claimed no judge ever stayed there.

It was, for a while, a farmhouse. The ex-owners believed it was actually built as a model farm, rather than a judge's residence.

Today, it's a gastro-pub frequented by workers from the council offices and county library across the road, plus members of the legal profession - and their clients - called upon to appear the crown and magistrates' court, which also stand overlooking the Flintshire town.

And you may spot a few well-known faces: the odd actor or director or director from neighbouring Clwyd Theatr Cymru are rumoured to enjoy a drink or two here.

It stands on Raikes Lane, named after a Victorian judge and grandad to Sir Victor Raikes, MP for Wavertree, who lived at nearby Llewenegrin Hall, now hidden among the concrete courts-and-council office complex

After being sold by the farmers, it was bought by the local authority, which converted it into flats for the offices' caretakers.

Its pub potential was spotted in 1999 by the Brunning and Price group, which dusted down its red Ruabon brick, converted barns to kitchens, and restored the wonderful timbers inside. Completely renovated, its reputation as a good place to sup and eat means it's often quoted as a bench-mark for newly opened gastro-pubs in the region.

The partners' shrewd investment paid off - Brunning and Price, which also ran a dozen or so other gastro-pubs in North Wales and Cheshire, was last autumn taken over by Frankie & Benny's owners The Restaurant Group, with a multi-million pay-off. for the founder

When we drop in on a Saturday evening, it's as busy as ever, with most of the dining tables filled. The food, sourced locally, is as good as any judge could command: leek and Caerphilly pasty with piccalilli for £5.25: pheasant with pear and pickled walnut dressing £6.75; mint braised shoulder of lamb £13.95; or grilled black bream with roasted cherry toms for £14.95.

The furnishings are an eclectic mix, sturdy wooden tables, comfortable chairs, none quite matching yet appealing with that old country house feel. The walls are adorned with posters and pictures from a century ago, some with a local provenance, others antique adverts.

But the bar is also busy with those just having a drink and get-together. There's an old guy on a bar stool, pouring over his paper with a pint, unperturbed by the gaggle of 20-something women sharing a bottle of wine.

As well as an impressive array of wines, by the glass or bottle, the pub's renowned for whiskies and beers from around the UK plus lagers a little further afield. On tap tonight there's Okells, Tim Taylor, Deuchars, Spitfire, Thwaites, Becks, Stonehouse and Stratopramen lager.

We opt for a half of Purple Moose's 3.6% Snowdonia Ale, nutty and smooth, and the Cottage Brewing Company's 3.8% Vulcan, (named after the WWII bomber that last saw service in the Falklands conflict) a light hoppy sup.

And we make a note to return to try out the rest - or the others chalked up as arriving in the next few weeks.

<< Go Back to Previous Page