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Llangernyw, Abergele, Clwyd LL22 8PP
Tel: 01745 860213
THE old place creaks its welcome as I click the latch open and gingerly make my way in. A deafening hush rushes across to embrace me.
Save for the murmuring of two men by the bar, a pin dropping would make sufficient racket to rouse the dead in the ancient churchyard of St Digain's next door.
There's no blaring jukebox; no stroppy flickering TV set demanding infantile attention. The men explain that everybody else has gone to The Bridge to watch this mid-week evening's football match.
Served with my pint of Strongbow, having decided against trying the Timothy Taylor Golden Best that's on hand-pull, I soon merge into the background as the locals return to their chatter. And the talkative barmaid pipes in with tales of her busy young life.
Left to my own devices, I set about on a self-guided tour of this fascinating old freehouse which has served this village in the Clwydian hills between Abergele and Llanrwst since the 17th century.
The bar unassumingly resembles a cross between a bric-a-brac shop and a museum. Stuffed stags' heads and antlers peer at me from nearly every corner, vintage ice skates hang from the heavily adorned beams, age old swords and shotguns threaten from every angle.
Over there lies the headpiece from a suit of armour, while an old typewriter that would call for fingers of steel to gee into action festers angrily, plonked unceremoniously atop a piano stuffed into the entrance to the lounge.
A couple of sofas set either side of a low table are so close to the magnificent inglenook fireplace to suggest it hasn't crackled to the sound of burning logs for some time.
The inn boasts a couple of useful alcoves to hold illicit discussions in, if only I could find someone to hold one with. The snug to the left of the front door offers another refuge from the banter which doubtless rages through the place on busier nights.
And with the Stag enjoying a reputation for its food that stretches way beyond the boundaries of old Denbighshire, it certainly offers many quiet nooks to while away an evening over a meal and a bottle of wine.
Meanwhile, the church of St Digain itself is well worth a visit. It boasts Wales' oldest living specimen - an yew tree reckoned to be at least 4,000 years old - and 7th century pillar stones dating back to the times of the Celtic church.
But it's advised to go along before venturing over the Stag's threshold. Legend has it that in the past imbibers used to venture into the graveyard on Hallowe'en. They'd press their ears to the church's east window to hear a mysterious spirit intone the names of those destined to pop their clogs in the coming year.
Then, no doubt, they'd head back to the bar to celebrate the good news or drown their sorrows.
The Old Stag, Llangernyw
01745 860213
Excellent food and especially Sunday Roasts ..... yum yum. Keep up the good work !!…
comment by Alan Roberts - 05/01/2012 01:13
The Old Stag is perhaps one the best Pub Resturants we have visited in North Wales.There is always a warm welcome in this family run pub.The locals are very friendly,and are willing to chat. The resturant provides first class food with an excellent menu and at a very reasonable price. We have had many excellent meals in this lovely country Pub Resturant and intend to have many more!…
comment by David & Joan - 16/01/2011 11:56
Had Sunday lunch at this magnificent country pub yesterday (6 Sep). Excellent food and drink and a fascinating step back in time before the advent of tv,gaming machines and juke boxes. Long may these traditional pubs continue to thrive against a backdrop of poorly managed run of the mill boozers.…
comment by David Speakman - 07/09/2009 10:55