
THE barmaid snuggles into her anorak and apologises for the chill that hovers menacingly in the air, before putting down what she's reading and coming to serve me.
The long-since cooled down ashes in the open fireplace suggests that a warmer welcome usually awaits the regulars. But then again, as I'm the only customer this mid-week afternoon, I wouldn't really expect any establishment to go to the expense of chucking on the logs.
A sign by the front door warning that no food was being sold that day was notice enough that they weren't exactly expecting a deluge of thirsty punters, let alone hungry ones. A loudly ticking clock competes with a radio programme to see which is best at attracting my attention. The clock wins by a nose.
The White Horse is split into traditional lounge and bar areas, one plushly carpeted and the other featuring a more utilitarian stone tiled floor. The bar to the left, partly semi-circular in shape, features classic wooden settles that give the place a comforting feel of not having changed that much down the decades.
Meanwhile the other bar has the feel of a catacomb about it, a narrow room probably created out of two, all stone arches, white paint and artex. It's served by low tables and a host of stools.
The usual alcoholic fare is on offer, including Thwaite's Flying Shuttle, generously potent for a cask ale at 4.6% ABV. Named after part of a cotton weaving machine, it's a typically Lancashire ale that describes itself as a dark beer with a fruit aroma and nutty flavour.
I'm intrigued.
However, the car waiting impatiently for me outside on Maengwyn Street, near Owain Glyndwr's supposed parliament house, demands that I stick to soft drinks.
Although the exterior could do with a dab of paint, the White Horse remains a fine focal point in a street full of buildings of note.
I sit down and recall how in days past, before licensing hours introduced during World War I were finally relaxed in the 21st century, travellers in these parts would stop here only to find out they'd missed the chance for a last minute afternoon pint.
They'd be aghast to find the pubs closed at 2.30pm when in neighbouring areas the shutters came down at three o'clock.
The White Horse has made a long and distinguished contribution to the imbibers' art in Machynlleth, once one of 25 inns that peppered this small town of just 2,000 souls.
However, surprisingly, it also played a small part in the temperance movement in the early 19th century when the then owner David Pugh allowed the local Baptists to use his loft as a place of worship before they built their own chapel.

18c Mostly Clear
Barmouth Viaduct at Sunset
Llanberis from Penllyn
Morfa Bychan beach near Porthmadog
North Wales Calendar 






