Picture of Ty Gwyn Hotel, Rowen
Ty Gwyn Hotel, Rowen

I WAS off for a quick, lunchtime drink in surely one of Conwy’s most picturesque rural villages. I say "quick", but a visit to the Ty Gwyn Hotel in sleepy Rowen on a Tuesday afternoon defies speed.

As I drove along the lane – flanked by sheep-dotted fields under a cobalt-blue sky – it seemed to be slumbering. Driving there is like driving into cotton wool.

Once inside the pub I plumped for a half of JW Lees bitter. Taking a seat, it was soon clear how important music was to the village.

A distinguished looking couple from Wrexham were the only other customers, apart from a lady chatting to the barmaid.

The gentleman, in a navy blazer and resembling veteran BBC reporter Charles Wheeler, was asking about the venue for an imminent concert by cantorion Colin Jones.

The lady, whom I took to be his wife, thought it was in a chapel. Obligingly, the barmaid phoned the proverbial friend and came back with "Capel Seion on Saturday, May 3", up the road.

Indeed, the couple were told members of several choirs including Côr Maelgwn Male Voice Choir often sing at T Gwyn on a Friday night.

I’ve been lucky enough to hear them myself.

Today, down the passage to the pool room, the organ was turned forlornly towards a wall. But, on a Friday, it can become a magnet for a throng of singers giving full voice to Sospan Fach, Hand Me Down (My Silver Trumpet Lord) and, of course, Hen Wlad Fy Nhadau.

Continuing the musical theme, on another wall were framed lyrics of Esgair Llyn, signed by a certain Dafydd Iwan. Even a guitarist was advertised on a board to do a weekend stint. The picture showed a younger man, though, than the veteran language campaigner.

Elsewhere, it wasn’t surprising to read T Gwyn had been runner-up in the Community Pub of the Year 2007.

As for food, the staff can serve up tasty garlic mushrooms, and, for mains, they do a liver special, shepherd’s pie or peppered pork. I was sorry I didn’t have time to stay for a meal.

On the way back to the office, I called in at Capel Seion. It was open but deserted. In front of the pews were display boards for a history exhibition.

It was interesting to read about Parchedig Watkin Jones and Sunday school teacher Athrawes Ysgol Sul Ann Thomas.





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