Tafarn y Beuno, Clynnog Fawr
IT was a long time coming, but a very good friend of mine and I had finally managed to find a Saturday night when we were both free. Being an artist she’s often away at trade fairs, down in her other gallery in Meifod or busy with her newly-opened gallery in Pwllheli. After agreeing on a date, the next topic was where to meet. I suggested Tafarn y Beuno in Clynnog Fawr, on the road from Caernarfon the Lln peninsula. Not only was it roughly half way for both of us, but I’d also heard some very good stuff about this relatively new venture. Having seen off quite a few proprietors over the past few years, not to mention having had a variety of different names including The Coach Inn, Y Beuno finally seems to be on the right track. For once in my life – and believe me, this doesn’t happen very often – I got there early. While waiting for Kathy I got stuck into the wine list, but not being much of a connoisseur (other than possessing a taste for it) I saw Anglesey Chardonnay and thought it to be a Welsh tipple – until the bottle corrected me by listing its place of origin as Australia. But, Welsh or not, it certainly proved a good choice, and went down a treat. Kathy was driving so stuck to bottled water, and this, I’m glad to say, was Welsh. Thanks to a fondness for gossiping, and with a lot to catch up on, it took us a while to order. When we did we chose the smoked mackerel which came on a bed of dressed salad and horseradish sauce; and the moules mariniere which Kathy proclaimed to be delicious, with just the right combination of cream, garlic, white wine and parsley in the sauce. We could also have opted for the chef’s chicken liver pâté with red onion marmalade and toasted bread (£4.25); whitebait with bread and tartar sauce (£4.75); or grilled brie and bacon with salad (£4.25) among other things. And eyeing other people’s options as they passed from the kitchen, any of the above would have been equally good choices. Tafarn y Beuno’s emphasis on local produce is reflected in the menu, which includes a host of dishes varying from the home- baked steak and ale pie (£8.25); homemade steakburger and chips (£7.95); local prime sausages with leek mash and onion gravy (£8.50); and Welsh sirloin steak served with a choice of stilton or peppercorn sauce (£10.95). Vegetarian options include vegetable pasta bake with parmesan glaze and garlic bread. Locally-caught fresh seafood also features strongly on the menu, from the salmon with garlic and prawn butter to the poached halibut from the specials board for which Kathy opted. My eye, on the other hand, was drawn to the half poussin served with rosemary gravy. Both dishes came with a selection of simply-cooked vegetables and chips, but since the vegetables were fresh they proved tasty without needing anything much done to them. After a well-needed respite, we set our sights on the dessert menu. Not having much of sweet tooth I plumped for the platter of Welsh cheeses and biscuits at a very reasonable £3.50, while Kathy chose the apple and mincemeat pie. It noted on the menu it came with a choice of ice cream and cream, but it proved to be no problem whatsoever to accommodate Kathy’s request of a bit of both. The dessert must have been good, since it proved to be the only time Kathy and I stopped gabbing all night. Another plus for Y Beuno is the fact it’s completely smoke- free, and it’s refreshing to see a business taking the incentive before the enforced ban on April 2. It will no doubt appeal to families looking for a place to eat out. On that note, it’s good to see that as well as the obligatory children’s menu of chicken nuggets (albeit homemade), fish fingers, sausages or burgers, they also offer child-size portions of all the dishes on the main menu. Clynnog Fawr may not be first choice for a night out, but Y Beuno is definitely deserving of a visit.
Y Beuno
Clynnogfawr, Caernarfon, Gwynedd LL54 5PB
Tel: 01286 660785

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