Picture of Gwesty Cymru in Aberystwyth
Gwesty Cymru in Aberystwyth

BIRTHDAYS are the perfect excuse for a five-star meal out, so when it came to Nia’s, it seemed a good opportunity to try out Gwesty Cymru in Aberystwyth. We walked along the Victorian prom to this beautifully lit Georgian building overlooking Cardigan Bay, with a meini Cymraeg (huge Welsh stone) displaying the restaurant’s name engraved on glass, plus a subtle dragon in silver.

Through paintings and poetry, the Welsh identity theme continued with striking oil canvases by local artist Bethan Clwyd. Twice chaired bard Tudur Dylan Jones composed an englyn (a traditional Welsh verse) for the hotel, and Mererid Hopwood – the first female to be chaired at the National Eisteddfod – wrote another for the restaurant.

The scene was set for a traditional, cultural evening with a modern twist – the perfect environment for a librarian who studied Welsh poets and an art & design student. Welsh oak and slate also feature strongly in the interior design of this Grade II listed building, refurbished as a luxury restaurant with rooms.

We were initially comfortably seated in the urban-cellar but very cosy bar – whitewashed walls against grey slate slab floors, benches and tables evoking that ‘traditional’ homely feeling of Welshness – while we read the bilingual menu, which promised a feast of seasonal local food and drink.

Chardonnay by the glass was the chosen aperitif for Nia and I, while Wil and Ken selected the wine for the evening – 2006 Lomas Carren Merlot (Valle Central Wine of Chile). I think Wil’s mum Gill Hendreseifion, following her trip to Chile, has been educating them. Something about Chilean wine being full of minerals. The cellar bar is well stocked with the finest Welsh liqueurs, whiskies, beers and of course, the wine.

Paradoxically, the three chefs are Polish, English and Welsh, though our hostess Isobelle was French (much to the delight of the boys) but learning Welsh. In a friendly and informal manner, Isobelle enjoyed the banter, made us feel at ease and more importantly helped us with our choices to suit our individual tastes.

We moved to the traditional dining room: with an old beamed fireplace and romantic sea views, it’s the perfect intimate setting for a meal. The table was simply set, with slate mats and silver Celtic napkin rings the perfect touch.

For starters Nia chose Thai beef kebabs – Welsh beef (of course) in ginger, garlic and black pepper – which she loved. Isobelle suggested I try the ground Ystwyth Valley Lamb cooked with Persian spices and served with humus. It was absolutely delicious

The king prawns for Wil was a different choice to normal and surprisingly he really enjoyed them, whilst Ken went unpredictably for the roasted field mushrooms stuffed with brie and red onion jam. Thankfully, he gave the thumbs up. I enjoy strong spicy flavours as well as being a fish lover so monkfish, salmon and king prawns in a Balinese coconut curry was the ideal choice for my main course. Without a doubt, it was the best dish I have ever tasted.

Nia was tempted by the slow roast belly pork with apples and sage and onion mash. Traditional and yet different. She cleared her plate and thoroughly enjoyed the meal with the added touches of perfectly cooked vegetables.

Despite spending the day blood testing 130 wintering lambs for blue tongue disease, Ken chose, yes, you’ve guessed it, rack of Ystwyth Valley lamb. Let’s hope the blood results are as good as his meal.

The roast breast of Gressingham duck with a black cherry & ginger sauce was Wil’s choice and he was also full of compliments to the chef – all three of them.

Nia, full from her massive meal, could not be tempted by the dessert menu and opted for a coffee. Ken, Wil and I were persuaded by the chocolate brownies, vanilla crème brulee and delice aux cassis. A mixture of rich chocolate, a velvety smooth blackcurrant mousse, and a light and floaty dessert. Perfection. Indeed, we really are beginning to appreciate the art of excellent cooking.

A second bottle of Merlot was ordered to give closure to the experience of unwinding and indulging good Welsh food in the relaxed ‘Welsh’ atmosphere of Gwesty Cymru.

19, Marine Terrace,
Aberystwyth,
Dyfed
SY23 2AZ


Tel: 01970 612 252





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