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I HAVE a friend who cannot afford to eat at the Pen y Bryn. It is not that the Pen is expensive, just she's very poor. But that does not stop her going. She buys a glass of wine, studies the menu and selects an imaginary meal, gently salivating as aromatic dishes are carried past to wealthier clientele.
"When I win the lottery, I will eat here every night," she dreams. It would help if she bought a ticket, but she will not be told.
The Pen y Bryn is that good. I must declare an interest: this is my favourite pub restaurant in North Wales, and I must have eaten here more than 50 times. And all the friends I've dined with over the years have all been equally impressed.
It is worth a visit just for the view. The windowed 20-yard long north side of the open plan bar looks from its 500ft elevation over a seascape of the Little Orme, Rhos on Sea and Colwyn Bay. An extra dozen tables are located in the well manicured garden terrace.
Most diners start a tab at the bar as they order their first drinks. A treat for me is a good selection of well kept cask beers. Thwaites is my favourite and Castle bitter from Conwy's micro brewery is often on tap. There is a choice of over 50 wines from around the world. Competition has pushed the price of house bottles to under £10 in many places, but here they are £11.95. But the Italian Marche bianco and red Sangiovese are worth it.
There is a new A4 photocopied menu produced every day, containing old favourites, new ideas and in season treats. To be spoilt for choice is the norm.
Veggie dishes can be a token gesture, but not here. They form a fair share of the menu and meat eaters will be tempted. Sometimes I fail to get past the starters and opt for two and forgo a main course.
They will be brought together at the same time as companions' mains. However complicated the order, it will be accurately and happily delivered. Local mussels, when available (not this night) , either as starter or main, are exquisite.
This time we skipped straight to mains. I chose a warm crispy lamb and feta cheese salad. The flavours complemented each other, and for a salad it was a very filling dish.
It is always safe to order steak at the Pen - locally sourced, it is invariably succulent and tender. My wife's 7oz Welsh Black fillet with dauphinoise potatoes, vegetables and peppercorn sauce was no exception. Perhaps a bit pricey at £17.95, but you have to pay for perfection. Daughter Alex chose the pan fried duck breast with smoked bacon and spring onion mash. Tasty.
No starters so we were allowed pudding. All are big enough to share, and the staff are happy to oblige. We had two between the three of us. The old favourite of sticky toffee pudding is as good as you will get. The plum crumble was just as mother made. You could splash out on a pudding wine (we did not), for example a Hungarian Tokaji Azu at £16.95 for 250ml.
I like my coffee (a double espresso to help me sleep) at the same time as my pud, again no problem for the staff.
The last thing you expect of the Pen y Bryn is that it is part of a chain, but it is. The place seems just too individual, too friendly. The Brunning and Price group is family-run, with 14 gastro pubs, mainly in north west England, but also Mold's Glasfryn, Gresford's Pant yr Ochain and Llangollen Corn Mill. All have good reputations.
There is no division between eating and drinking areas in the delightfully spacious open plan design. Plenty of room between tables gives a relaxing air . Quirky, carefully chosen prints, posters and photos, mainly with a local flavour, cover the walls. Furniture I guess was bought second hand, but helps with the character of the place.
wish I could find something to criticise to give the review a more balanced air, but I can't. Let me know if you can.
Pen Y Bryn Road, Colwyn Bay, Clwyd, LL29 6AL
Tel: 01492 533360
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comment by Colin - 12/08/2011 06:50
We visited Pen-Y-Bryn last night and had the most wonderful meal! It was a busy friday night and we should have booked but happily waited for just over 30 mins for our table, sitting at the friendly bar. staff were wonderful and extremely efficient at keeping table bookings upto date. the atmostphere is excellent - cosy but spacious, well decorated and just made you feel welcome. we ordered the monkfish and the steak and ale pie and the portions were huge! meals were delicious - the steak inside the homemade pie just fell apart in my mouth. I could not finish my meal due to the size of the portion (and Im pregnant!) but that is in no way negative! You really get fantastic value for money. Everything is homemade, none of your frozen meals like other chain pubs! quality food! I would have loved to have had a pudding (sticky toffee pudding!) but there was just no more room in my tummy! I cant wait to go back for another meal. if you are going on a friday or saturday night - book! it gets really busy from abut 7pm onwards! I cant recommend this pub any more - I love it! prices are very good and not as expensive as you may think! worth the drive up that hill! …
comment by sarah - 04/04/2009 02:40
The Pen y Bryn is a fabulous place to eat. Food brilliant, staff very knowledgable and pleasant. I have recommended this place to so many people who are now hooked, as we are, I should have shares in the place.…
comment by Jan Kearney - 27/03/2009 08:15
went there on thursday20th nov 08 staff were not up to the standard i would expect food totally overpriced told waitress my veg was cold and all she did was walk away 5 people ate 5 very upset people NEVER AGAIN my phone number is 01375404800 call before you try im a chef myself …
comment by ken dixon - 30/11/2008 08:51
Food and service have always been excellent at the Pen Y Bryn - in the summer sat in the garden with the views is spectacular - Sunday roast excellent - biggest yorkshire pud I've seen - ok pricy for well worth it.…
comment by Anne Foley - 25/06/2008 10:44
My partner and I ate at the Pen Y Bryn last night, and we won't be back. The food was fine but the service left a lot to be desired. After waiting about 25 mins after ordering the food, I went to the bar for another round of drinks. I stood there beside a young girl, who was being served - no one else was waiting. My food arrived then. The barman finished serving the girl, and without a look or word to me, left the bar and went collecting glasses. My food was getting cold so I passed up on the second drink, had my meal, and went to pay. it took another protracted period of standing at the bar alone trying to get someone to take my money. The one thing the staff excell at, is in avoiding eye contact with the customers. In future I will eat elsewhere where my custom is appreciated.…
comment by Brian McGarry - 21/06/2008 12:18