
The Bishopsgate Hotel in Beaumaris is a gem of a building - a restored Georgian townhouse - in the necklace of architectural jewels that makes up the town's Castle Street.
There's a cocktail bar, a residents' sitting room with deep window seats, an award-winning restaurant (AA stars, Michelin Guide) and nine bedrooms, two with four posters, reached by a fine Chinese Chippendale staircase. The furniture is antique, the fireplaces mostly original and, for the finishing touch, there's a cat called Pollyanna. Spooks wouldn't surprise me; had I lived there, I wouldn't want to leave.
If it all sounds very posh, it isn't. It's warm, welcoming, friendly, lived-in and very clean. And the food is superb.
This time round, I'd planned to name names instead of referring to 'daughter, son' and so forth - it's easier to type. But some folk demurred, so our party was made up of: daughter and son, their spouses, myself and my daughter's mother-in-law.
Still, staying for a moment with naming names, I think the Bishopgate's chef should have his in lights over the door. And he should write a book, have a telly show. I've always been very finicky over food; doing Taste Tests, I feel positively obliged to look for faults.Here, the Bishopsgate scored a beautiful, perfect zero.
Dinner is served from seven o'clock and there are two dinner menus - a la carte and set - both offering choices of meat, fish and vegetarian options, all freshly prepared from mostly local produce, such as salt marsh lamb and Lleyn Peninsula beef. The wine list is comprehensive but neither daunting nor bankrupting.
Having booked in advance (very strongly advised) we went on a Sunday evening. While sleety rain and a bone-chilling wind scoured the town, we sat snug in the sitting room with our drinks. In the bar, one man and his dog sheltered from the elements. It's that sort of place.
The dining room is at the rear, and spacious. The tables are far enough apart for privacy but still companionably placed. And big. We had loads of elbow room, something of a luxury these days in even the poshest joints.
Already on the table were fresh, warm rolls and pots of butter; they lasted all of five minutes. Daughter and her ma- in-law, who has an elfin appetite to match her tiny figure, opted out of starters. Son had a whopping great roasted field mushroom topped with Stilton in Guinness; I had melon with berry sorbet and coulis; children- in-law chose soup of the day - homemade, creamed wild mushroom with garlic and herbs.
Next up were the mains - chicken breast wrapped in Parma ham with a delicious, peppery sauce (son and I); rack of roast lamb with bubble and squeak (daughter and ma-in-law); braised beef in mushroom and wine sauce (daughter-in-law) and tartlets filled with goat's cheese and caramelised onion for son- in-law. Plus big dishes of buttered new potatoes, tatws Dauphinoise, buttered carrots, cauli, broccoli and mangetouts.
By then, son-in-law and his ma were stuffed, so no puddings for them. Son's wife had fresh strawberry ice cream, he chose toffee pudding and daughter and I showed off our French and ordered tarte au citron in accents upon which Amy, our waitress, commented. After that, back to the sitting room for coffee.
Pollyanna curled up in a lap, purring fit to bust. Not knowing her name, we discussed whether she was he or a she. At another table, other guests were playing Scrabble; when one said "Pollyanna", I assumed he'd created a score- breaking word and I didn't respond. If he's reading this, my apologies.
As I said before, the food is superb - perfectly cooked and presented and exceedingly plentiful. In a way, it's very simple stuff, but beautifully thought out and balanced, with those inventive touches that put it miles ahead of the rest and leaves you knowing you've had an absolutely fantastic meal.
Castle Street, Beaumaris, Anglesey, LL58 8BB
Tel: 01248 810302

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Barmouth Viaduct at Sunset
Llanberis from Penllyn
Morfa Bychan beach near Porthmadog 






