WITHOUT wishing to encroach on the territory of Phil Brown, the Daily Post's resident quiz expert, I offer the following poser. What do Hawarden, Rhos on Sea and Switzerland have in common with a country lane near Wrexham?

I don't imagine that even the most ardent Taste Test reader will be able to come up with the answer, which is: Imfeld's.

None the wiser? Then how about Imfeld's Swiss Bistro?

Soon after the Taste Test was launched in the Post one of the first places I visited, in 1991 or so, was Imfeld's in Hawarden - and very good it was too.

I was reminded of it by a framed cutting of the article on the wall of Markus Imfeld's current restaurant, which forms part of the Kiln Inn in the tiny hamlet of Cross Lanes, near Marchwiel, a few miles from Wrexham.

Alongside it was the write-up by another Tester on another of his previous ventures, Winkles, at Rhos Point, Rhos on Sea. Hence the link!

It was by sheer chance, a spot of idle Googling, that I came across a mention of the Kiln Inn and Markus' latest restaurant. After all, a 16th-century pub down a quiet side-road is not the most obvious location for a Swiss restaurant and as we pulled up outside on a cold, miserable night it looked like the kind of place more likely to offer steak and ale pie or gammon and eggs than aelplerknoefpli or fondue.

The bistro's website describes it as "a stone's throw away from Wrexham's town centre".

Not far, I must admit, but some throw nevertheless.

Apparently Markus is the only Swiss restaurateur in Britain to hold three AA rosettes for food in two premises at any one time.

The place was deserted when we arrived but the cosy bar looked snug and inviting, the more so after my wife's efforts to revive the log fire.

The restaurant, adorned by posters, photographs and other Swiss paraphernalia - as well as those Daily Post cuttings - is in the conservatory to the rear of the building and again seemed slightly incongruous in such a setting.

On a cold night we were pleased to have a table alongside the radiator.

To start I had risotto alla nonna, described as "a rich, traditional farmer's dish" with wild bacon and mushrooms, and excellent it was, too. The plate was piled high and was almost a main course in itself.

My wife, always hesitant about having a starter lest she be too full for a sweet, could not resist the promise of raclette Valaisanne, a thin but richly flavoured melted cheese - "Alp cheese" to be exact - with baby potatoes and mixed pickles. It, too, would have made a satisfying main dish.

From the specials menu board I chose seafood lasagne (produce of the same sea in which the Swiss navy operates, one assumes!) and it was the best of both worlds. The tender pasta was packed full of prawns and other tasty morsels.

My wife was just as pleased with her vegetable crepe with cream pepper sauce, which, like my lasagne, was deceptively large and filling, but she managed all but a tiny portion.

By then a party of four had occupied an adjoining table, the only other diners to arrive that evening, though there was a small family party in the bar.

We needed a breather, and I was tempted by several of the none-too-heavy-sounding sweets. I eventually opted for pear and almond flan, which was just as I had hoped - light and refreshing.

My wife could not face a full-sized sweet and requested two scoops of coffee ice cream, which disappeared with no difficulty amid appreciative noises.

She managed another rescue job on the log fire before we ventured out into the cold with mixed feelings. The food was very good but we felt something was lacking, possibly due to the lack of atmosphere.

The restaurant, which can accommodate up to 40, is open only from Wednesdays to Sunday evenings, but Markus caters for private parties by prior arrangement.

To find the Kiln Inn take the A525 from Wrexham through Marchwiel and turn right at the traffic lights in Cross Lanes.

The Kiln Inn, Kiln Lane, Cross Lanes, Wrexham, LL13 0TG

01978 780427